The Trusted Partner for Foreign Investors in Vietnam

Masonry, plastering, screeds & waterproofing

Wall plastering method

Screeds, mesh, key coat, two-coat plaster, ruling off, floating and curing, with acceptance criteria and nine common mistakes.

  • World Steel Group
  • Published
  • 4 min read
Wall plastering method
In this article
  1. Preparation
  2. Work sequence
  3. Acceptance criteria
  4. Common mistakes
  5. Reference standards

The plaster coat decides how flat a wall is before painting or tiling. World Steel plasters interior walls in a fixed sequence: screeds (dots), mesh, key coat, two-coat plaster, ruling off and floating, with acceptance by the supervising consultant at the screed stage and before the main plastering.

Wall plastering method, photo 12

Preparation

  • Drawings show the clear dimensions of every room; the plaster usually stops 5 cm or 10 cm above the false ceiling level (as designed); special details such as curtain recesses, set-backs and unplastered reveals have sections and notes.
  • The mortar mix is tested and approved by the owner; a mixing table is prepared in site batching units (18–20 litre buckets or 40×40×25 cm boxes).
  • Plaster only after conduits, socket and switch boxes and concealed water pipes are installed; box edges and pipe ends stand out by the plaster thickness.
  • Remove dust and dirt, break out concrete bulges and fill large holes before setting screeds.

Work sequence

StepWorkControl
1. Screeds (dots)Chalk an offset line round the base of the walls (usually 300 mm out). Set dots top and bottom at the four corners; where a bulge cannot be broken out, use it as the reference (about 5 mm thick). Dots in rows 1.5–2 m apart, the first row 10–15 cm above the floor; smooth dots about 5×5 cm.Check dot flatness with a plumb line and straightedge; at door openings, string a line along the frame face.
2. MeshFix steel mesh where masonry meets concrete columns, beams and walls and along M&E chases; at least 5 cm overlap each side, mesh openings no larger than 3 cm (usually 1×1 cm welded mesh).Accept the mesh before plastering.
3. Key on concreteSpatter dash with 1:1 cement and coarse sand, or brush on a thin cement slurry and plaster when it starts to firm up; scabbling is rarely used.Done alongside the screeds and mesh.
4. WettingWet the wall so the bricks do not draw water from the mortar; wet hollow bricks 2–3 times about 15 minutes apart until they no longer look pale.Insufficient wetting causes poor bond or cracking from behind.
5. Applying mortarLay boards or sheeting at the wall base to catch mortar. Apply the first coat within reach of the rule; when it firms up, apply the second coat so both are flush with the dots. Plaster a whole wall face continuously to avoid joints.No coat thicker than 8 mm; thicker plaster is built up in coats with a key between them; ceilings 10–12 mm, thicker on steel mesh.
6. Ruling offWhen the mortar firms up, rule it flat off the dots; cut back high spots and rule once more.Finish one section before moving on.
7. FloatingFloat from the top down; add water at joints and wait for wet areas to dry off; do not press hard, to avoid crazing.Check corners with a square.
8. CuringMist the wall 24 hours after plastering and keep it damp for at least 3 days. Use all mortar within the day; clean up at the end of the day.No crazing.

Wall plastering method, photo 21

Acceptance criteria

  • The plaster is firmly bonded with no hollow spots; tap to check, and hollow areas are broken out and replastered.
  • The surface is flat, with no crazing, runs, tool marks or defects at arrises, skirtings or door bottoms.
  • Arrises straight and sharp; corners checked with a square; window and door reveals parallel; sills at the correct fall.
  • Arris deviation less than 5 mm over the full height of the element.
  • Vertical deviation of the wall face relative to the ceiling less than 10 mm over the full length and width of the building.
  • Surface irregularity: hollows less than 3 mm deep. Checked with a laser and an aluminium straightedge.

Common mistakes

MistakePrevention
Dowel ends not cut, concrete bulges not removed before plasteringAccept the surface before setting screeds
No mesh at concrete–masonry junctions or where interior and exterior plaster meetList the mesh locations on the drawings
Patchy spatter dashCover the concrete face evenly
Pale, powdery plaster because the bricks absorbed the waterWet the wall properly before plastering
Uneven plaster height, top edge not cut straightChalk the plaster level and cut the edge to the line
Hollow plaster under lintels because it is too thickBuild up in coats, on steel mesh where thick
Wall flaring at the base because it was not cut backCut the base straight before the mortar sets
Cracks where scaffold holes were patchedPatch with the correct mortar mix and mesh
Socket boxes and pipes sealed with cement slurrySeal with the specified mortar, not slurry

Wall plastering method, photo 22

Reference standards

The edition in force when the contract is signed applies.

  • TCVN 9377-2:2012 Finishing works in construction – Execution and acceptance – Part 2: Plastering works
  • TCVN 4314:2003 Mortar for masonry – Specifications
  • TCVN 9202:2012 Masonry cement

Tags

  • construction-method
  • plastering
  • finishing

Share